Journal · ORIGAMI
The Naked Calculation
Everyone knows a yacht should be dressed in gloss. Nobody prices the wardrobe — or mentions that it can never come off.
In this article
- Forty minutes on the generator
- Ten per cent paint
- The manual worth reading before you buy
- The deck everyone has
- The layer nobody asked about
- A colour you can change your mind about
- The naked calculation
- The people who did the sums first
- What the aluminium asks in return
- What the broker will say
- What André is actually buying
I met André at an autumn boat show, beside a sixty-foot hull up on its cradle. He has been choosing his boat for three years. The fuel curves of the two diesels he can’t decide between live in a spreadsheet on his phone; he showed it to me right there under the bow. He can tell real veneer from printed laminate by touch. A good buyer, in short — careful, sceptical, the sort who checks what the broker says against the registry.
In a month he will sign a build contract and make the only genuinely irreversible mistake of the whole purchase. He won’t notice where it happened.
The mistake takes up two lines of the specification. One says “hull and superstructure finishing”. The other says “teak deck”.
Forty minutes on the generator
Sales conversations run the same way the world over. The generator gets forty minutes: output, sound insulation, service intervals, why this one and not that one. Stabilisers get twenty. The finish gets about forty seconds, because it’s just a colour, here’s the chart, everyone takes white.
And the salesman never lies. He doesn’t need to. It’s enough to tell you the things you were hoping to hear and let you fill in the rest yourself. There is one word in his vocabulary you should treat as a fire alarm: “included”. Included means you’ve already paid for it. You just didn’t notice when.
André chose white. André took the teak — “it’s standard, everyone has it”. Which is true. Everyone has a mortgage, too.
A boat, like a person, gets dressed once and then keeps a wardrobe for life. The difference is that a person may come down to breakfast in whatever was on the chair. A yacht is expected to be in full dress every day, including the days nobody comes to look at her.
Ten per cent paint
In an actual finishing contract for an aluminium hull, the payments break down roughly like this. Half the money goes on fairing — the layer of filler that turns welded metal into a perfect surface. Another third goes on primers: anti-corrosive, high-build, finishing. Two of those three exist only because the filler exists and has to be bonded to the metal below and sealed from above.
The paint itself — the point of the whole exercise, that white off the colour chart — is about a tenth of the bill.
Nor is this one strange contract; it’s how the trade works. The people who paint superyachts say so openly: painting is seventy per cent preparation, and within the going rate of €800 to €1,500 per square metre, most of what you’re buying is labour, not material.
André will pay ten per cent for paint. The other ninety buys a surface worthy of the paint.
On sixty feet the total runs from €150,000 to €400,000, depending on the yard and its ambitions. Then there’s the time. Finishing comes at the end of the build, on the critical path, and takes up to a year. For that year the vessel sits in a shed — half painted, almost fully paid for, entirely unavailable.
The manual worth reading before you buy
The yacht is launched, the topsides gleam, André is happy. He now has some new reading: the coating manufacturer’s care guide, the most underrated document in yachting.
From it André learns that traditional waxes and polishing compounds are forbidden — abrasives shorten the life of the finish and void the warranty. Also that the hull must be washed regularly with the maker’s own product, because accumulating dirt attacks the topcoat. Read those two requirements back to back: you may not remove dirt with abrasives, and you may not leave it there either. His deckhand lives in the space between those two sentences.
Then comes the polymer sealer, applied by hand, machines forbidden. The manufacturer says it helps to restore shine, temporarily, to surfaces gone porous with age, and to keep up an acceptable appearance until there is time to repaint. I didn’t write that; it’s in the guide. The official purpose of looking after the coating is to last until the next coating. Few manufacturers describe their product so honestly.
The small print is a world of its own. Metal polish rinsed off the fittings by rain or dew etches and dulls the paint. Wet cushions and coils of line trap moisture against the surface and blister it. Teak cleaner splashed onto the topcoat leaves stains. The deckhand is expected to hold all of this in his head at once.
Now the arithmetic. Scheduled washing twice a week in season, off-season washes, unscheduled ones after every dusty rain — and Saharan dust settles over the Mediterranean regularly and reaches the Channel. Sealer over the whole topsides, by hand, several times a year. Call it three hundred hours a year for one man. The same vessel with untreated aluminium topsides needs about eighty-five: salt is salt and still wants rinsing off, but the regime disappears — the branded chemistry, the sealer schedule, the price of a mistake.
The difference is two hundred and fifteen hours. Twenty-seven full working days a year, about the length of a decent holiday. The difference is that on holiday you don’t polish.
A deckhand on a boat this size costs €2,000 to €3,500 a month before taxes, food and a cabin; shore contractors charge $25 to $50 an hour. In money, those twenty-seven days come to somewhere between five and twelve thousand euros a year. If there’s no crew and the boat is your own, the days are your own too.
The deck everyone has
Now the second line. The salesman said exactly one thing about teak, and it was true: everyone has it.
Real teak decking runs around $600 to $750 per square metre installed, against $250 to $380 for synthetic. That’s the entry fee. Then ownership begins: cleaning and oiling every six to twelve months, at $75 to $125 an hour if you hire it done. Every year, no exceptions.
And teak has a property even paint lacks: it is finite in thickness. Every sanding takes off millimetres, and one day there is nothing left to sand. The life of a teak deck is measured not in years but in sandings remaining before the screw heads surface.
The ending is predictable: replacing the teak on a mid-sized yacht costs $60,000 to $120,000 — assuming the deck underneath hasn’t spent years quietly absorbing surprises.
So why does everyone take it? Here we have to be honest: the market pays for it. Brokers warn plainly that a deck without teak knocks money off the resale, and some buyers turn round before they reach the saloon. One owner on a forum put it better than any marketer ever has: buyers divide into those who have never had a teak deck and have heard it’s essential, and those who have had one and know it’s a nightmare.
The gap between those two groups is about five years. André is still in the first.
The layer nobody asked about
Everything so far is expense — unpleasant but comprehensible. The real discovery waits for whoever asks: what’s actually under the paint?
Under the paint is the fairing layer that took half the bill. Five, ten, in places twenty-five millimetres of cured filler. It has three properties you won’t find in any brochure.
Start with the one kept quiet for a particular reason: the thickness of that layer is an X-ray of the yard. Filler exists to hide what the welding left on the metal, and the straighter the welding, the less there is to hide. The best yards keep the average to three or four millimetres — at the yard I run, anything over four is investigated as a welding defect. Good Dutch work stays within six. Where hulls are pushed through on volume, it starts at twelve and climbs — and the buyer pays for those millimetres three times over: as material, as sanders' hours, and as ballast on the topsides. Which gives André a question worth asking before signing, one nobody asks: what average fairing thickness are you budgeting for this build? The answer says more about construction quality than any tour of the shed. A thick layer isn’t generosity. It’s a signed confession.
It’s heavy, too — and this can be worked out rather than felt. On a carefully welded hull the average fairing layer is four to six millimetres; on an ordinary one, counting the corners, chines and transitions where it reaches twenty-five, closer to a centimetre. Over our 130 square metres of topsides that comes to half a tonne to a tonne, primers and paint included. For scale: the entire structural framing of a fast 34-foot powerboat — frames, stringers, profiles, everything that actually holds the vessel together — weighs about eight hundred kilos. The layer applied to hide unevenness weighs about as much as the structure that carries the loads. And it doesn’t sit low in the bilge amidships; it’s smeared over the topsides and superstructure, above the waterline, where on a heavy 25-tonner it lifts the centre of gravity by centimetres and on a light seven-tonner by up to a quarter of a metre.
On a fast boat, weight is speed given away voluntarily. Later onto the plane, more stern trim under acceleration, higher cruise consumption, a lower top end — André will pay for that mass in horsepower and fuel for her whole working life, starting on launch day. A tonne of filler can’t be left ashore like a spare tender and can’t be burned like fuel. It is the only cargo aboard that never goes ashore and never does anything.
It’s brittle. On the underwater sections of fast hulls nobody fairs at all — wave impact knocks it off, and nobody finds this surprising. Above the water the impacts come less often, so the layer lasts longer, and everyone pretends it’s a different material. In northern latitudes the ice takes over: the layer draws in moisture through micropores, the water freezes and expands, and the cracks run from the inside — along edges and corners, around every window.
Above all, it doesn’t come off. In theory it can: over the whole area, down to bare metal, at real risk to the plating, for roughly the price of a new finish. In practice nobody does it. Paint can be stripped. Film can be peeled. Engines can be swapped. The fairing is for keeps.
A word about the aluminium itself, because what happens to it under a coating deserves its own paragraph. Bare aluminium has a rare talent for self-defence: scratch it, and within moments the wound closes with a dense oxide film, and that’s the end of the matter. Under a coating that mechanism is switched off. Moisture that gets beneath the layer doesn’t dry out for years; in a sealed, airless pocket the chemistry shifts so the protective film can no longer form, and corrosion stops being an event and becomes a process. Its product is a loose white powder, several times the volume of the metal it has eaten. It jacks the coating up from underneath, and one day André sees a blister.
A blister is not the start of the problem. It’s the press release.
Coating aluminium is conventionally called protection. In practice it creates, and carefully maintains, the one set of conditions in which aluminium cannot protect itself.
So the two lines in the specification turn out to be what they were all along: not a purchase but a subscription. An annual payment, a balloon instalment in year five to seven, and no early exit — because the new paint goes onto the same permanent layer, and the new teak goes onto a deck that will need repairs of its own once the old planks come up.
A colour you can change your mind about
Here it’s worth mentioning something a painted boat simply doesn’t have.
A smooth aluminium topside is a ready substrate for film. Not only plain colours, either: printing allows anything — matt graphite, metallic, a bow-to-stern fade, a charter operator’s livery, a sponsor’s name for the regatta. The car world went down this road a decade ago and hasn’t come back.
The mechanics are what matter: film is applied, removed and replaced in panels. A damaged section is swapped in hours, between charters, with no colour-matching and no spray booth. Bored of the look — change it. Selling her on — peel it off and hand the buyer clean metal to decide about for himself. Paint offers none of these plots: the colour chosen in forty seconds off a chart stays with the vessel until the next repaint.
The limits are honest ones. Film lives years, not decades; dark colours cook in the heat; edges and compound curves need skilled hands. And film reproduces its substrate without mercy — on a welded workboat topside it will pick out every ripple. Which is exactly why nobody used to take the idea seriously: there was no surface worth putting it on.
Film is clothing: take it off, put on something else. Paint is a tattoo: removable, but slowly, expensively and with traces. Fairing is cosmetic surgery: there’s no way back.
The naked calculation
The only battle worth fighting here happens at a desk, before signing, and the weapon is a table.
| Convention: fairing, paint, teak | Satin aluminium, synthetic deck | |
|---|---|---|
| Hull finishing, year 0 | €150,000–400,000 | €15,000–40,000 |
| Deck, year 0 | $600–750/m² | $250–380/m² |
| Upkeep, annually | €12,000–18,000 | €3,000–5,000 |
| Major event, year 5–7 | repaint + re-decking | — |
| Time to handover | + up to 12 months | weeks |
| Reversibility | none | paint and teak remain available later |
The assumptions are open; substitute your own: about 130 m² of topsides, a 30-week season, €25 an hour, a 5 % discount rate. The numbers will argue over tens of thousands. They won’t argue over the order of magnitude: across five years the difference runs to hundreds of thousands of euros — the price of a decent second boat.
The last row matters more than the money rows. Declining fairing and paint closes nothing. Choosing them closes everything, permanently. Other things being equal, a rational person picks the reversible option — every finance textbook teaches this, and no yard brochure does.
The people who did the sums first
If all this is true, there should be people somewhere who worked it out before André. There are, and plenty of them.
Norwegian and Alaskan working fleets have run bare aluminium in salt water for decades — not out of poverty, but because where there’s ice and minus thirty, coatings honestly don’t survive, and everyone up there knows it. In Amsterdam, capital of a country that built a good share of the world’s superyacht fleet, a bare hull is simply the city norm: canals, locks, daily contact, and brushed metal long ago started reading as design rather than economy. Perhaps the Dutch know something. In Australia an entire industry builds craft from aluminium plate that nobody paints, and the main argument there isn’t even climate — it’s production common sense.
Four markets, four different roads, one destination. The one thing none of them ever got was a surface you could bring to a Porto Cervo pontoon without apology. Bare aluminium looks like a workboat, and it’s this — not the economics — that kept it out of the big-beautiful-yacht segment for decades. The barrier was never the idea; it was the surface. It’s now being removed by new methods of hull construction that deliver an even, satin topside straight off the jig — Stingray Lab is working on one of them.
What the aluminium asks in return
It would be dishonest to finish without the price of this decision. There is one; it just isn’t denominated in money.
Aluminium remains aluminium. It wants anodes, isolation from stainless fittings and respect around other metals — and it wants them equally whether the topsides are painted or not. Good yards know this by heart, and still every builder of aluminium boats can tell the same story: the coin that rolled into the bilge and spent a season there. A copper disc, salt water and an aluminium bottom make a perfectly serviceable battery in which the consumable element is the hull. A smear from a steel tool or an offcut of copper wire will do it too. A year later it’s not a stain but a pit; a few years more and it’s daylight. I’ve seen those pits myself. The coin, incidentally, comes out looking mint.
Scratches and dents read differently as well. On gloss, a dent warps the reflection and a scratch means repairing the coating; on satin, both are simply visible.
That’s where the real boundary runs. A bare topside doesn’t forgive inattention — it displays it. A coating hides inattention, and that’s the whole difference: a visible defect is sanded out in an hour, a hidden one bides its time under the layer that took half your finishing bill.
Is aluminium worth the trouble at all, then? It is, because nothing replaces it. On fast hulls and superstructures it delivers strength that composite matches only at greater cost and weight. It takes a blow rather than cracking under one. And it’s the only hull material worth anything at the end of a vessel’s life: aluminium remelts more or less indefinitely, and remelting takes a small fraction of the energy that went into the primary metal. A GRP yacht ends its days as a disposal problem somebody will be paid to take away. An aluminium one ends as raw material somebody will pay you for.
What the broker will say
By now the sceptic has an objection ready, and it’s a fair one. The same broker who knocks money off for a deck without teak will knock it off for unpainted topsides. The market is conservative. André isn’t selling his boat to physics or to a spreadsheet — he’s selling it to a man who has also spent three years walking boat shows and has also heard that gloss means quality.
The answer was already in the table, in the last row.
The discount on an unpainted hull is capped at the cost of painting it — a cost known in advance, and one that, as we’ve established, is ninety per cent preparation this hull won’t need. If the market demands gloss in 2032, André buys gloss, for the money he once saved.
The reverse doesn’t work. The buyer of a vessel with tired paint inherits the fairing layer with its whole biography: the moisture it has drawn in, the microcracks along the edges, the history of every previous repair. His discount is capped by nothing, because nobody knows what’s in there until the stripping starts.
What André is actually buying
In a month, André signs. If he reads those two lines carefully, he’ll get more than the money — the money is honestly the least interesting part of this story.
He’ll get the right to change his mind.
Matt graphite for the first season? Done. Two years on he decides the topsides should be the colour of wet sand with a fine line along the sheer — rewrapped in a week. He puts her into charter and dresses her in the operator’s livery, then takes it off in the autumn. He scrapes a quay in some fashionable marina — a panel is replaced between breakfast and lunch. He tires of film altogether — peels it, and underneath is even satin metal that looks more expensive than anything on a colour chart. And if one day the market, or his wife, demands gloss — he paints, and it’s an ordinary paint job, without the half-a-bill of preparation.
The yacht stops being a finished object that can only be preserved, and becomes a thing he can keep making his own. The savings, frankly, are secondary.
All it costs is one decision, taken at the right moment. The method in question has a nickname around the yard — “origami”; the technical substance is protected and isn’t discussed here. What matters is something else: for the first time in decades, “to paint or not to paint” has stopped being a question of taste and become a question of arithmetic.
André, fortunately, hasn’t signed yet. He has a month, and a calculator. And exactly one day on which this decision costs nothing — the day the specification is lying in front of him.
About the author
Feliks Solovyov is co-founder of Stingray Lab and the author of a method of building aluminium hulls that require neither fairing nor paint. Before the yard he spent many years as a professional yacht captain, holding a Master 3000 GT licence. The method is protected by registered copyright.
Sources
- Foreland Marine — refit cost structure; full repaint of a 45-metre yacht: €200,000–500,000. https://forelandmarine.com/insights/how-much-does-a-superyacht-refit-cost
- Boat International — “painting is 70 per cent preparation”. https://www.boatinternational.com/yachts/editorial-features/superyacht-refit-costs-guide--42249
- MillionPlus — quality paintwork at €800–1,500 per m² including preparation and containment. https://millionplus.com/what-is-a-superyacht-refit-and-how-much-does-it-cost
- LuxCalculator — labour as 60–70 % of paint cost. https://luxcalculator.com/yachts/yacht-paint-cost/
- Awlgrip, official care guide. https://www.awlgrip.com/north-america/support/maintaining-an-awlgrip-finish
- Release Boatworks — coating care in practice. https://www.releaseboatworks.com/blogs/news/boatyard-tips-maintaining-awlgrip
- Yachting World — deck covering prices. https://www.yachtingworld.com/features/teak-alternatives-decking-options-126023
- New Mil Marine — teak deck replacement: $60,000–120,000. https://newmilmarine.com/teak-deck-replacement-vs-repair-cost-and-durability-comparison/
- Trawler Forum — re-decking quotes; brokers' comments on resale. https://www.trawlerforum.com/threads/gb-36-cost-to-replace-teak-decks.76628/
- Flying Fish — 2026 crew salary guide. https://www.flyingfishonline.com/news/superyacht-crew-salary-guide/
- YPI Crew — 2026 crew salary guide. https://www.ypicrew.com/yacht-crew-salary-guide
- Yacht Cost Calculator — shore day-worker rates. https://yachtcostcalculator.com/blog/yacht-crew-salaries-2026-guide.html
- Finishing-contract payment breakdown — build contract for a 60-ft aluminium catamaran (internal document; available to the editors on request).
Aluminium hulls that needno fairing and no paint
ORIGAMI is our own method of building aluminium hulls: every surface bends in one plane only, so the topside comes off the jig even enough to leave bare, wrap, or paint — your decision, taken later.